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  • Light bulb moment.

    Too much volume is bad for your (or definitely my) surfing.

    I'm 42, 6'2 and 95 Kgs. I surfed when I was a teenager, then stopped when I was land locked and started again about a year ago. Got a longboard as I thought I would be back at beginner level but got back into it really quickly so started hunting for shorter boards. Tried a couple of boards from JS and DHD but never really got on with them. After countless hours of reading I convinced my old brain that volume was the answer, Apparently it's good for the soul!!!

    So, back to my opening line, and my cheaply acquired 6'10 Spitfire. I've spent the last few months catching plenty of waves but getting very frustrated at my lack of progress. I was advised by a couple of wise heads on here to try smaller volumed boards. Today I finally got round to sorting out a demo, but the 6'4 Dominator I was hoping to demo was out. Then I was pointed towards a 6'2 V2 Rocket. That's 39L. That's 16L less than the Spitfire I have! That's almost enough to make a grom board. How the hell is that going to work for my lard ass?

    Laid the V2 and a 6'0 Dominator on the shop floor. Pushed the nose and the V2 rocks like a seesaw. Tried it with the Dominator and it stops on it's flat rocker section (just behind mid point to front fins). Now this is where I qualify the opening line. Too much volume is bad when your not using it correctly. I like to be quite far forward when paddling and am a very front footed surfer. So I've basically been hitting the brakes on my Spitfire.

    I'll never buy another board without a demo first. The Dom/Spit range is clearly very popular and suits a lot of people, but not me. This is not a dig at the Dom/Spit range, but it's just not the board for me.

    Paddling out on the V2 was easy. Didn't miss the extra 16L on duck dives. Conditions were starting to deteriorate and get a bit choppy but I was out in the line up in no time. Waves were waist to chest and cleanish on the face for the first 20 minutes of the session before things headed south. When I paddle for waves I don't really kick. I tend to roll my weight forward so the nose width and smooth rocker of the V2 clearly suit my forward paddling style. Paddling into the first wave was way easier than on my Spitfire.

    Pop up, drive hard off the front foot, head up the face, transfer the weight back and smack the lip. Boosted so hard off the lip I'm out in the flats laughing to myself. Catch another five before the surf turns to custard, then head for the reforms to discover it's not a knee high groveller but I don't care because I've just found the best board I've ever ridden for clean waist to (probably) head high conditions. I feel like this thing just effortlessly goes where I'm looking on the wave.

    Fins. I'd never even heard of them but the guy in the shop stuck on Von Sol's (FCS tabs). Pretty standard looking fronts, small upright trailers with only one tab (in the front part of the two rear boxes) and a knubster. Have to say I never gave them a thought when I was in the water.

    The only thing that will stop me buying a V2 is the Nano I'm going to demo next weekend, but it'll have to go some to beat the V2.