Well I rode the 5'8" in solid 4' plus pumping (high tide) point waves the other day.
Only had the time to catch 2 waves but the shorter spud felt a lot more work to paddle in the flats but caught waves easily enough.
The board felt great on the waves I caught. Super fast and loose. Fast and loose. Oh yeah....fast and loose!
It's a mantra!
The only problem lies in the fact that paddling short boards that have my back arching up when I paddle them pulls my muscles around my scapula out of alignment due to a stuffed shoulder from snowboarding.
Every time I start feeling good I jump back on a board that's just that bit too short and bam...pain city!
So I took the demo back and figured I'd leave it at that.
Tried riding my 6' spud yesterday and again this morning but even carrying it down the beach it was feeling oversized and up and riding it felt so much board.
I'd been tainted.
My head had been messed with.
Curse you 5'8".
Checked the time on my watch.
The surfshop that had the 5'8" is just across the road. Get one in and scoot across to see if the 5'8" demo is there.
It is and after a quick fin and legrope swap with my board it's back out again.
The waves are 2-3' and fast breaking, with hollow take offs.
The 5'8" feels more work to paddle out as I'm deeper in the water.
But paddles into the waves well and my thoughts about connecting with the wave energy by being a bit deeper into the wave on take off are correct.
Super fun.
The drops are easier on the 5'8" in these size waves.
Got some smoking lefts and rights.
After a while my bloody scapula pain starts in.
Not sure what to do now.
My 6'2" p'nator is only a litre more in volume but is easier to paddle around the flats with it's narrower nose so I've had no pain from paddling it.
The problems with my shoulder are always worse in winter with cooler water so I'll see how I go after this.
I'll wait and see how much pain I'm in over the next couple of days before deciding whether I can keep surfing the 5'8".
Hopefully the voltaren will help.


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